Webmaster’s note: The format of this column includes all of the Quill’s Endians participating at various times and in various ways! Phil writes this month’s column.
The Intimacy of Eating
Here’s to letting our taste buds lead the way. Our pastures this week have me drooling a little at the capacity of our animals for converting this lush June fertility into delicious, nourishing food.
There are many reasons to support human-powered, small, ecologically friendly farms. We produce real food that is nutrient-dense and full of flavor. We care for our place by improving the soil and local ecosystem. We keep dollars circulating through our own communities. We strive to raise and train the next generations of stewards. Farms can add a common sense to our communities’ dialogue that comes from working closely with nature, recognizing our part in it, not apart from it. We provide a measure of comfort and security in case of supply chain breakdowns.
I could go on, but you get the point. I believe strongly that we need more farms and farmers on land to stem the tide of the last 80 years of adulteration from corporate chemicals that has occurred in our soil and to our food.
The number of dairy farms in Maine has dropped from 5,100 in 1945 to 145 in 2023. Ponder that.
In 1945, the entire dairy herd was pastured during the growing season and fed dry hay in the winter. In 2023, the majority of dairy cows in Maine eat a “total managed ration” and live most of their lives on a concrete slab.
As a rule, our culture has called this progress. The cows are more efficient. The tractors are more efficient than animal power. Economies of scale are more efficient than a decentralized, localized system. This same logic would result in a “total managed ration” for humans as well. It would be more efficient.
Oh, but the taste buds. The intimacy of eating. The culture and variety. The seasonality. The memories.
It gives me a great degree of pleasure to watch all the critters here at Quill’s End eat. Especially during the growing season when their ‘plates,’ like ours, have a wider diversity of foods.
Imagine the choices we abandon if we step only into the grocery store for our sustenance, where 85% of the products on the shelves did not exist before 1945: what farmer to patronize, what sustainable practices to encourage and support, what particular variety to request from one of your farmers. We leave behind a farm visit with a pasture or garden walk for aisles of bright packaging and fluorescent lights.
As blessed as we are here in western Hancock County, we shouldn’t rest until our places are filling up our plates daily, and more of our pastures are full of life and laughter, furthering a community-based model of food production that continues to spread to more rural places. Led by our taste buds and the intimacy of the act of eating from our place.
Heather and Phil Retberg and their three children run Quill’s End Farm, a 105-acre property in Penobscot that they bought in 2004. They use rotational grazing on their fifteen open acres and are renovating thirty more acres from woods to pasture to increase grazing for their pigs, grass-fed cattle, lambs, laying hens, and goats. Quill’s Endians are members of Halcyon Grange and publish a newsletter for their farm’s buying club of farmers in her area and generously permit us to share some of their columns with Grangers. Visit the Quill’s End Farm Facebook Page for more information.